By Filep Motwary
Growing up in Amuka, a village in the forests in the north of Israel, Hed Mayner started sewing from the age of 16, making his own patterns and garmants. He later studied at the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design, before moving to Paris to enroll at the prestigious Institut Francais De La Mode. Paris enriched Mayner’s aesthetics…
FM: How did everything start for you?
HM: At the beginning I worked for a tailor, Then for a furniture designer, Then studied for four years in Jerusalem, Then moved to Paris. I started my studies there but left at an early stage. After leaving school I felt that I should go on an independent way, so we moved to Jerusalem, where I had the feeling that its the center of the world. In Jerusalem I was living amongst many different ideas that interested me; the idea of vulnerability, tradition, power and nobility. That’s what pushed me to start.
FM: Why you have chosen fashion as your profession in the first place.
HM: I related to the idea that a fashion designer is open and information is passing through him, he looks, feels and doesn’t judge too much, just transfer a certain emotion, identifies a moment. I think it’s about being flexible and attentive to your surroundings.
FM: How did you form the Hed Mayner hero, the man you dress?
HM: In my collections there is a tension between fluid pieces and structured pieces. The idea of luxury does not exist from where I come from, the surroundings we have is more equal to uniforms – it can be military outwear or the Jewish orthodox tailoring. This tailoring is never really perfect but still something is refined and appears noble. Status does not exist in these clothes. The Jewish tailoring is more about wrapping the body rather than shaping it. I find it a great proposal for men today the over-sized proportion make you look like you are wearing your big brothers jacket- it gives strength and vulnerability at the same time.
FM: Who is this man ?
HM: The work we do is trying to fit a contrasted personality. We like to keep the idea of openness and allow for different interpretations. Each person who wears the clothes will relate to a certain emotion. I don’t think people want to be defined so easily today.
FM: Do you feel fashion is changing? Towards which direction?
HM: I feel that questions of Identity will become critical and complex for us in the future. The desire to belong to something will become very important. In general I feel that in the near future there will still be a lot of products in the market, but the way people will consume them is going to be different than it was a few years ago. The need for unique items will grow and it is very possible that it will be the young labels to offer them.
FM:What is the most important thing a young designer must know?
HM: I don’t know, I still make every possible mistake.
FM: Have worked for other designers before you launched your own collection?
HM: I was mainly working with craftsmen. I never worked for big fashion house, I was working with a tailor who was making made to measure suits and then I was working for a furniture designer and also shoemaker.
FM: How did it help you?
HM: It helped me a lot, some of them are very precious to me, they’ve been good teachers.
FM:What shall we expect from you in the near future?
HM: For the near future we are planning to start working on our SS 16. At the same time we are preparing the orders for the FW 15/16 collection.
FM: Where is your FW15 collection available?
HM: It will be available at: New World Order (New York) Odd (New york) Cement (Tokyo) Nomad (Osaka)