INTERVIEW: LUCIO VANOTTI on CONCRETE AW13/14

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Absolution of all restrictive conditions is a pivotal condition for coping with the raging elements. Alongside the sea in turmoil, a stern strongly lined concrete structure stands erected, whilst it sheds its composed dressed inhabitants from the torrential rainstorms.

This novel AW13 collection by LUCIO VANOTTI, is derived from the institutional play between texture, structures and shapes. Deriving from the square shape, tessellate forms have been drawn as perpendicular silhouettes. Useful, basic and composed, the garments serve as sartorial tools for forward thinking leaders. A composition of rigid, cement-like sturdy materials and fluid fabrics, allows for textural interplay. Rubbers, opulent leathers, sleek wools and sheer cotton stretch have been yielded and fused with one another. The resulting lineage follows dressers’ rationale, deriving from structured craftsmanship, with a focus on shirting, jackets and tees.

The cool colour palette, comprised of dark blue, hued greys, blacks and crisp sky blues and whites, underlines the resolute Nordic and wintry appeal of the collection. Henceforth, variations of minute depictions of concrete surfaces, the human eye and pixelated sea have been added as print detailing.

VANOTTI also introduces, in collaboration with Mr. PETER NON, a sultry dress shoe, reminiscent of a sleek sandal. Henceforth, LUCIO VANOTTI aims to equip urban travellers with a personal take on the iconic rucksack, comprised of quilted leather and sturdy waxed rubber.

The collection CONCRETE allows for stern reflection on daily escapology and the irreverent exploration of the suspension of time.

Exclusive photos by by Francesca Forquet

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FilepMotwary: Lucio, which experiences helped you form your own aesthetics?

LucioVanotti: As a very sensitive person, design led me to seek peace around me. A sense of tranquility and pensive reflection. Furthermore, I think my composed aesthetic view developed a strong attraction towards purity as a synthesis. Silence is immensely useful. In my opinion, a person that has a lot on his mind, does not seek out relevant elements.

FM: What is your new collection for SS14 about?

LV: It is centered around a quest of immersion, in water, curves, balance and light. I aimed to seek for composure and a clear balance between fabrics and silhouettes.

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FM: Why did you choose both womenswear and menswear?

LV: The man and woman have different bodies and as a result two different instincts. Evolution however, will bring the two sexes closer, allowing them to approach each other. This is what I observe in modernity. My collections also consist of several unisex garments. Many times this was not my decision, but the decision of the wearer. Personally, I think I enjoy designing both for the female body, as well as the male and perhaps also assessing androgenity at time..

FM: In your opinion what are the differences between men and women?

LV: A man can be more practical, his silhouette is more solid and it almost needs a form of a rigid breastplate. Whereas, the woman is more playful, more liquid, she needs to attract. To me, the interesting thing is that these features mingle and interact with one another. Man and woman are often locked in a game of references.

FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last? How does really longevity mean in this business?

LV: It is important to try to be comfortably consistent with your own ideas. And to have the courage to risk a change of course, one should not merely follow fashion and trends.

FM: How did you form the heroine-woman you dress?

Personally, I do not have a heroine, I normally create a concept. From here each individual takes it and makes it into his or her own.

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FM: How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one?

LV: The crisis does not exist, there is however a change one can sense in fashion. In my opinion it is not to relevant what fashion as a whole is doing or where it is going. For me it is crucial to focus on doing my job, because I like it. I also want to work with individuals that share my love for design and create. At times, I wish we were a little more freed from this global market and its stringent expectations.

FM: Is this the moment of great creativity?

LV: These times shape a foundation and framework for creatives to be free and allows us to think independently. A real creative is the one who finds a way to live well equipped with an open mindset.

FM: How relevant is creativity to the way the fashion industry functions today?

LV: This is very relevant, but it depends on what you mean by creativity in fashion, a the concept of nice dress or a nice advertising are very much different. Creativity is innate to creation and interaction, which are pivotal elements within fashion.

FM: Is Fashion changing? Towards which direction?

LV: Fashion is always in turmoil, as the story changes from season to season.There shall never be only one direction forward. Therefore, I hope that one of the new directions is a return towards an appraisal for traditional craftsmanship. As many independent ateliers, craftsmen and visionaries exists across Europe for instance, that deserve attention and to be acclaimed for their exceptional quality production an historic frame of reference.
Thank you Marlo Saalmink

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