A liberated man of basic foundations: Hed Mayner SS16

HM9169 HM9208Growing up in a small village located in the North of Israel near the Lebanese border, Hed Mayner started sewing at the age of 16, making his own patterns and garments. He later studied at the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design on the West Bank of Jerusalem, before moving to Paris where he enrolled at the prestigious Institut Français de la Mode.

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Living in the French capital allowed him to discover new aspects of fashion and style, as well as hone his design skills and enrich his own aesthetics.

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Mayner advocates a timeless and unfussy approach to design, using natural fibers and refined fabrications, as well as a layered silhouette fitting different climates. Inspired by life in Tel Aviv and the dignified elegance of men surrounding him, he combines contrasting textures freely, crafting geometric garments, which follow the body instead of encasing it.

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Inspired by the looseness and clean lines of the Moroccan djelabba, he imagines a serene and confident wardrobe for Spring, defined by roundness and a sense of exoticism. Volumes are wide and welcoming, underlining graceful gestures and freedom of movement. Mayner twists and reworks traditional shapes in order to give them new ways of being, exaggerating the proportions of a collarless coat or adding subtle curves to a belted trench.

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Outerwear is key within the collection, from cropped jackets with hidden pockets to an overshirt style with contrasting buttons. Those pieces are worn with cropped pants or long jeans, adding a sharper edge to the overall silhouette. The military bomber -one Mayner’s favorite styles- is offered in a collarless version, with a slightly boxier fit. The designer’s passion for Hasidic clothing comes out in his reinterpretation of a formal, double-breasted blazer in black wool, nonchalantly worn over a long djellaba.

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If Mayner tends to favor high-quality materials, such as wool, cotton or leather, he is also exploring color this time, from muted pastels and light neutrals to pigment-inspired tones. Pink, beige, saffron and rust are some of the line’s strongest accents, as well as light khaki and brown. Fabrics often have a stiffer feel, from Barbour-inspired treated cottons to thick and substantial leather.

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Worn over simple cotton djellabas -which Mayner approaches as a sort of basic foundation- his elegant clothes take on different meanings, emphasizing their masculine and everlasting character. Body language is key for Hed Mayner. The attitude of his guy is confident, but never imposing. Combining fluid volumes with stark lines, the collection appeals to a liberated man, who values ease and carefree clothes.

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photography  Cecile Bortoletti
Styling Samuel Drira

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