Lightness. Grace. An idea of impalpable femininity pervades the Rochas s/s 15 collection. Alessandro Dell’Acqua draws the figure of a contemporary jeune fille suspended between virginal shyness and blooming sensuality, capturing a moment of transition into the clothes. The subtraction of weight amplifies the density of sumptuous materials, always intensely worked, embroidered, inlaid.
The result releases a delicate sense of preciousness: a graceful opulence that reveals itself only up close, intriguing and surprising. The body, barely touched, in perceived under forms that are airy and precise: small shirts, short blousons, long dresses, polo dresses, apron skirts. The silhouette is vertical, defined by a high waist, sometimes very high, and small shoulders; it reaches the calf or touches the floor. Surfaces burst in vitality, touched by a savoir faire that renews the precious French heritage of Rochas.
Geometric intarsia of Chantilly lace, guipure and net create boiserie shapes on long column dresses and voluminous sundresses. Delicate hummingbird prints swarm on georgette dresses, or on the silk faille coats and skirts upon which other birds are embroidered with multicolor or black crystals. Form is dematerialized in transparency: dotted jacquard jackets and coats float on airy organza bases; hand-painted velvet flowers blossom on light surfaces.
Filet, macramé, lace and guipure are associated in tactile juxtapositions. Sequins decorate the narrow pencil coats as they were small ingots. Apparently dissonant signs create a new balance: military belts tight over the breast, a varsity R on the chest, long gloves made of leather and organza. The quest for delicate femininity is emphasized by the shades of white, blush, black with touches of gold and oily yellow. Shoes capture the thrill of a flutter in ombré accumulations of fringes, sequins, strips of pvc. The Art Deco-inspired stiletto heels are a meticulous intarsia of enamel and crystals.