AT A GLANCE

Text by Marino Bombini
802-dovima-1956---christian-dior-salon-paris

«To look at the moon it is necessary to gaze beyond the pointing finger». It’s quite unfortunate yet inevitable that in the (fashion) world some are still staring at the finger instead of going deeper with their soul (whether they had one) to enjoy the whole brightness the satellite could give.

And, as timely as the moon, a new (in a manner of speaking) fashion cycle has begun. Again. The SS14 worldwide circus still lets journalists, experts and style gurus (not to mention parvenu bloggers) rush in their obvious argumentations. A few of them try to pull away a more philosophical idea behind garments (thankful to the crumbs of clues press offices release with wisdom), but her majesty the queen tiredness reigns supreme. Only boring people got bored, but it’s truly hard to find a reason for excitement in today’s fashion galore.

A few years ago Stefano Gabbana said «we do not make clothes, we do make fashion». Which might sound fantastic if we were in wonderland, but here on earth fashion has 100% to do with clothes, simply because it has to do with market. And ‘according to many specialists’ market has no room (at least no longer) for just ideas, you have to sell. From this perspective even sparkling gashes into the system must be seen as an accurate marketing plan, just because failures have no second chance now. And it’s pretty funny to read about trends and vogues as if they are a pure fantasy-birth of genius designers («SS has never been this floral!» someone columned down; or «XXI century Grunge is a real breakthrough in fashion»).

World is no more what we used to wish it would have been, and keeping dreaming of it can be romantic and relieving in a way, but what we need now is to accept things are changed even for unchanging old institutions, and trying to force them as they were in new paths is a mere waste of time. In the case of fashion market, it is perfectly split in two: luxury branch (high quality products at very high prices) and basic branch (very low quality products at average/low prices). What stands in between is a mix of the worst aspects of the two (very low quality products at high prices, the quintessential anti-economic strategy), leading then to an unsuccessful ending. But most of all it can’t be the future. The future must find a new way, and first of all we must build a new grammar with new words. But remember, words are not the truth, «truth can be likened to the bright moon in the sky. Words, in this case, can be likened to a finger.

The finger can point to the moon’s location. However, the finger is not the moon». We must rethink technology and use it, not used by. Re-educate to a slower (even slightly) life and not listen to the-faster-you-go-the-faster-I-get voices, which seem more and more distant, leaving us always unsatisfied. We are perfectly aware that it takes ages to make a revolution, but the best way to reach out for the target is start seeking it.

* Any opinions expressed in this report are solely those of the author.

Image: Dovima in Christian Dior, 1956

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