COLOR BLOCKS AND LOOSE LINES… HED MAYNER SS17

Growing up in Amuka, a village in the forests in the north of Israel, Hed Mayner started sewing from the age of 16, making his own patterns and garments. He later studied at the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in Jerusalem, before moving to Paris where he enrolled at the prestigious Institut Français de la Mode. In Paris, he studied new aspects of fashion and craft, which enriched his aesthetic.

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The sacred and the traditional are both part of Mayner’s world, as well as a passion for authentic menswear pieces, which he likes to twist and rework. His clothes can be passed on from father to son, escaping the transient nature of designer fashion. Focusing on a substantial and stylish wardrobe of everyday separates, his debut collection emphasizes comfort and self-expression, underlining the universal appeal of archetypal clothes. Addressing the essentials of a male wardrobe -from a sleeveless trench jacket and a pair of loose jeans to a roomy bomber or draped white t-shirt- his sartorial vision is grounded within an appreciation of honesty, as well as an interest in the finer details. Impeccably tailored and constructed, the designer’s clothes are as beautiful inside as they are on the outside, evoking a subtle sense of luxury which has to be felt and experienced instead of being seen.

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Now in his late 20s, Mayner advocates a timeless and unfussy approach to design, using natural fibers and refined fabrications, as well as a layered silhouette fitting different climates and contexts. The cultural richness of Israel, combining 70 different cultures in one single land, also gives Mayner the creative distance he needs to explore new fashion ideas. His fascination for “poor” tailoring and utilitarian clothes is fused with the religious and the non-religious, the local and the global. Imagining a fresh form of luxury which gets closer to truth as opposed to sophistication, he’s inspired by life in Tel Aviv and the dignified elegance of men surrounding him. The designer likes to combine contrasting textures freely, crafting geometric garments that follow the body instead of encasing it. The clash between East and West is a motif within Mayner’s approach.

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Hasidic motifs pop-up within the line, as well as rectangular volumes, which give a minimal and airy vibe to his clothes. A revisited caftan turns into a weightless shirt, while a traditional bomber jacket becomes airy and soft, losing its lining as well as its original purpose. The color palette is always neutral, hovering between pure and raw white to solid black, as well as beige, khaki and gray with touches of color , and for the first time the use of prints and patchworks

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Body language is key for Mayner. The attitude of his guy is confident, but never imposing. Leaving enough freedom to the wearer to take his own stance, he creates unusual garments, which have a realistic and pragmatic depth. Balancing thick and fluid, stiff and soft, hard and gentle, he underlines the importance of his own craft, as well as an inspired take on menswear staples.

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PHOTOGRAPHER : CECILE BORTOLETTI@ASG   ASSISTANT: JEAN-YVES GIOT  FASHION EDITOR : SAMUEL DRIRA  ART DIRECTION :SYBILLE WALTER STYLIST ASSISTANT : SARAH CHERVET HAIR STYLIST : AURELIE DELTOUR MAKE UP ARTIST : MEGUMI ZLATOFF@ASG  CASTING DIRECTOR : KAREN PFRUNDER. Models Theo@Premium & Roman Croigneau

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