Pleasant springlike winds sweep the city clean. The first signs of summer have arrived. Positive souls appear from the city’s dusty alleys and stuffy office buildings, keen to step onto the cities many parks, roaring beach parties and cozy strands of green. As the light captures their expressive faces, the winter is cleansed away from them. They all unite in leisurely activities, idling away the time, frittering around sparkling fountains and buzzy promenades, fully embracing the summery city pulse.
For SS14, WACKERHAUS aims to provide women with a sense of reclaimed freshness, leaving the dark morose winter months behind. Equipped with a sense that time is on their side, they aim to reach for new heights. The new collection invites women to wholly embrace the spring and its many opportunities. Gallery openings, work gatherings and wine vernissages part of their summery pallet.
The collection is divided into two sections, a leisurely socializing part, featuring lightweight garments, casual knits, boxy sporty jackets and breezy long garments. In turn, these are contrasted by a more formal business section with structured blousons, fitted dresses and elongated layers such as a tailored trench and lengthy throw over cardigans.
FilepMotwary: Which experiences helped you form your own aesthetics?
WACKERHAUS: As a designer, I am quite a sensible person, so I am much aware of what clothes can do to give you a feeling of comfort and confidence. Next to this, I strive to make clothes that are accessible, uncomplicated yet with a pensive dimension. For me, small but important details, for example the meticulous process on how to incorporate pockets nicely in party dresses, in order to add a functional edge to them, have always interested me. My aesthetic is centered around the creation of sartorial solutions that are both beautiful and practical.
FM: What is the POLO CITY SS14 collection about?
W:The collection embraces happiness and optimism. I felt like grasping that special feeling which tingles inside ones body when spring arrives. It is a sentiment of anything being possible. Pure joy. Which is also connected with the long winters we suffer here in the North, thus spring marks a fresh beginning each time.
FM: Why did you choose womenswear and not menswear?
W: As an admirer of masculine tailoring, I have always loved suits and oversized stuff, yet in an effeminate manner. Subtle detailing, good tailoring and structured fabrics inspire me. Principally, I must admit I feel very much inspired by mens wear. On the other hand, being a woman I also have this soft side that gradually gets more and more visible in my collections. Especially the SS14 is very feminine compared to my previous collections. In womenswear, I am allowed to explore both sides of me – which would not work that easily for me as a menswear designer.
FM: In your opinion what are the differences between men and women?
W: The sensibility and mood of women is well translated into our way of dressing. I think women are way more controlled and in touch with their feelings when they dress.
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last?
W: Style and taste are individual and some times the wind luckily blows in your direction and some times it doesn’t. As I always say ”We can all shoot wrong for a season, but that doesn’t hurt anyone. On the other hand by avoiding risks or choosing the safe road of mediocrity, you will devalue your brand slowly but surely” How does really longevity mean in this business? A good design will make both the actual garment and the brand last longer, so in different ways the longevity lies very much in the design itself.
FM: How did you form the heroine-woman you dress?
W: This is constructed by looking at many different women. Dissecting their moves, expressions and general appearance – I love helping women feeling comfortable and powerful in my designs. When talking to our customers, I feel so proud when I am told that my designs actually builds their confidence.
FM: How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one?
W: Personally, I actually think it has been an interesting time the past years – most of us have had to rethink and trim our business making it more sustainable and in a way more sympathetic. The crisis has forced the creatives to invent designs within some new dogmas and I believe that limits are good for creativity – when you can have it all you don’t really need to twist your mind.
FM: Is this the moment of great creativity? How relevant is creativity to the way the fashion industry functions today?
W: It depends on how you define great creativity. If there is an expression such as great creativity for wear-ability, I think we do wonders right now! I have never seen so many cool and interesting outfits as today, that I would actually wear.
Photography by Casper Sejersen ©