Neil Barrett’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection is an exploration of the balance between opposites. Masculine with feminine, sculptural fabrications with fluidity, streetwear with formal.
The silhouette is definitive and sharp: skirts are long, the torso short, a cropped sweatshirt worn throughout as the underpinning, sometimes forming twin-sets with key outwear pieces.
Garments are taken from a man’s wardrobe and reworked to give them a quintessentially feminine feel. Facings are extended and lend fluidity to soft tailored coats, jackets and bombers. Irregular pleats fall from under tailored outerwear and bikers, animating the shapes. A high or low-heeled androgynous Chelsea-boot underscores the looks.
The thunder bolt, a key motif of the menswear collection, features centrally. Sharp and dynamic as a repeat print or jacquard, worked into quilted leather blousons and sweatshirts. Both this bolt and the polka-dot are engineered to sculpt and define the body in a game of perspective, mirrored in complex three-dimensional placements.
Degrade? calfskin to suede and alpaca coatings and knits create subtle ombre?-effects, in nut brown through to black. Photorealistic bear fur prints, used to open and close the Fall 2014 menswear collection, are applied to bombers and sweatshirts, adding texture. They form a new, ?eco? interpretation of the fur coat.
The palette revolves around rich tones of ebony, walnut, black and off-white, with a vibrant, synthetic shot of brilliant orange, like the lining of a men’s MA1 bomber jacket reversed. Like the lightning-bolt, this flash of colour energizes the collection.