Elsa Schiaparelli introduced her “Stop, Look & Listen” collection in January 1935 when she moved into her new couture house located 21 place Vendôme. Schiaparelli transcends that theme following Elsa’s pioneering spirit of mixing Haute Couture, live performance and collaboration with artists. Its new version is channelled by Jean-Paul Goude’s “Sound & Vision” experience that becomes the catalyst for backing the victorious attitude of the Schiaparelli woman and the remarkable Haute Couture savoir-faire.
The collection is an ode to self-confidence. Daring elements match exquisite details. Elongated silhouettes exhale femininity and allure yet epitomise Elsa’s eclectic personality and distinctive chic. They draw upon the timelessness of Maison Schiaparelli’s lexicon playing with her obsession for pierced hearts, padlocks and Ursa Major.
A light hand infuses relevance for today’s women. A gauzy net ‘cage’ gown shows a delicate embroidery of tiny colourful feathered stars. A harlequin dress in shocking pink and vermilion silk illustrates couture excellence, made of a patchwork of diamond-shaped motifs of varying size. Witty trompe l’oeil hands close a crystal star necklace on a draped dress.
Masculine tailoring is overtly feminine. Perfectly cut tuxedos in silk wool twill or lamé velvet big bows hiding behind. Jackets feature a 1938-inspired chain embroidery or pockets embellished with colourful feathers. Hand embroidered and cut hearts cascade down the back of a soft nappa coat.
Hand-painted motifs use a traditional ‘discharge screen-printing’ technique. Whimsical names include Petite main amoureuse (seamstress in love), Jeux d’atelier (atelier games) and Bataille d’épingles (battle of pins). Signature elements collide to reveal a new alchemy where bold jewelry fuses melted glass, crystal and brass and Le Soirée jewel bags are all clasped with the Schiaparelli padlock.