text by Haris Giannouras
Reto Crameri’s universe is a place of unexpected encounters, curious cultural meetings one could say that lead to an intriguing fashion result. The up and coming Swiss designer explores a bilingual expressive vocabulary that combines western and Moroccan references creating silhouettes that manage to balance their past while flirting with the future. White jackets with ethnic details, oversize pants and colorful striped jumpsuits, complete a tale of a woman powerful, yet elegant.
The main source of inspiration for the AW15 collection came from a series of Albrecht Durer’s watercolors and drawings which were combined with elements from traditional North African prints and fabrics.
The creative juxtaposition between the German Renaissance and Moroccan cultural imagery results to a contemporary fashionable mashup, having icons like Iris Apfel, Diana Vreeland and Josephine Baker marching through my head once confronted with these rather fascinating hybrids.
But the most interesting part of Reto Crameri’s work is merely the creative composition and the clean cuts and shapes, but the political comment subtly hiding under the turquoise rhinestones. The designer influenced by the ideas of fair trade used textiles that came from a factory in Marrakech which employs handicapped women, in an effort to take a stand against our globalized and nowadays even more consumer oriented culture. At the end the melange of historical memories, minimal shapes and political aura charms us, leaving us craving for more.