Lightness. Movement. A suave taste for impeccable spontaneity. The Rochas collection for resort 2016 oozes impalpable grace. Inspired by the unique personality and the elegant stubbornness of dancer extraordinaire Margot Fonteyn, who was a prima ballerina for an entire lifetime, Alessandro Dell’Acqua balances the easy and the unexpected. Dance inspires both the lightness of the materials and the spirited freedom with which everything is combined.
The silhouette is airy and modest. The body, barely touched, can be nonetheless perceived under fluid, airy dresses: the waist is cut high, hems stop below the knee, suggesting a certain properness, or timidity. Frills swarm all-over, adding a sensually tactile note. Ballerina prints over duchess silk give further depth to the ballet atmosphere.
The tension of the masculine and the feminine creates nuance: a mannish cashmere pullover is worn over a frilly skirt, while frills run over simple blouses. A gingham apron dress swipes the floor. Lazy and languid, the pajama is a dreamy suit, while coats swing firmly. Surfaces are alive: rich in applications and intensely worked with inlays and ajour, they dematerializee into transparency, modulating shadows. Georgette, chiffon, duchess, taffetas mikado draw a grammar of pure preciousness. Ginghams, dots and checks are transmogrified from the men’s repertoire onto precious couture textures.
Delicate nuances of baby pink, white, cream and powder are accented with flashed of mustard yellow and black. Accessories add a sensual touch: pumps and embroidered slides are insouciantly worn on bare feet, suggesting a different side to this delicate personality. The precious heritage and the exquisitely Parisian iconography of Rochas is evolving nonchalantly contemporary.