After a 60-year sleep and a first season to awaken Elsa Schiaparelli’s eclectic personality, the house of Schiaparelli embraces today the richness of its legacy. This season reveals a bold, unconventional and flamboyant collection in the true sensational spirit of Elsa. Marco Zanini explores the confines of controlled excess by balancing mastered Haute Couture craftsmanship and absolute chic.
Fearless femininity and sophisticated elegance create a surprise. Confident with herself, the Schiaparelli woman is proud of her daring nature and fantasy. Her presence is an affirmation of her Parisian allure. Her strong personality translates into Hollywood Kodachrome vibrant colours, irreverent prints, exquisite embroideries, architectural tailoring and glamorous flou. The verticality of the silhouette is showing an hourglass waist and a renewed strong shoulder line.
Oscillating between femme fatale and hard chic, each piece is mesmerizing by its seductive savoir-faire. Glycerine-glazed black ostrich feathers make a bolero resembling monkey fur. Mixing high and low is the essence of Schiaparelli. Precious alligator hand-worked to look like chiffon contrasts with multi-coloured lamé fringed faux fur. Silk velvet gowns come in Balade nocturne’s cavalcade of rats in black jacquard or in shocking pink, the only shade of pink with the nerve of a red.
Witty hand-painted prints play with urban mundane animal motifs and screen- or chain-printing traditional techniques: Dans les ombres du jardin (night butterflies against ivy leaves), Les Amis d’Elsa (fox-terriers, boxers and poodles), Central Park (squirrels and rats) and Les pigeons de Notre Dame (flying pigeons).
Jewellery in the shape of ivy leaves, pierced hearts and night butterflies are reminiscent of Elsa’s lexicon. In melted glass, crystal, copper and brass, they echo handcrafted bejewelled buttons. The nonchalant opulence of the look is pushed to its extreme with Suite N.7 clutches in alpaca, breitschwanz or harlequin mink adorned with a 1938-embroidery turned into a golden lock.