By Marlo Saalmink
After the men, we turn to the ladies. At the moment, the women’s weeks are in full swing, taking note of the sultry offerings for the coming winter. Always quite the paradox, as across Europe, we are longing for those first signs of spring. What better way to venture into the lighter season, then through some thorough apparel investigation.
In this concise chapter, let us revisit the Baltics and in particular Latvia, as over the past seasons, many exciting creatives have emerged from this neck of the woods. Think the likes of exquisite Hyères wanderers Mareunrols, the craftsman Tomas Berzins of Victoria/Tomas and cobbler extraordinaire Elina Dobele.
No stranger to these pages, is the work of KETA GUTMANE, a self-taught creative tailor, that has steadily worked on her understated collection collages. Now, a recent Woolmark Prize nominee, she definitely belongs amongst those mentioned above. Her work strikes a fine balance between silhouette, texture research and composure. The garments are part of a profound dialogue between the studio and its clientèle. Intimate, sincere and open. Keta is not one for shouting, she prefers to listen and observe. When looking closer at her work, one can truly sense her unique take on feminine independence.
For SS16, she showed long oversized coats paired with sharply tailored poplin shirting, fitted slim pants that appear underneath confident woolen blazers, a billowing graphic trench features alongside grungy coated cupro skirting and breezy linen vests are donned over silky loose tops. The styles are maintained in understated deep black and gamma white, only broken by a dash of checkered tartan.
In her collection notes, she finally notes astutely: ‘’Observation equals dialogue. It constructs a bridge between those who belong and the ones that once were lost. Outsiders, you are never forgotten’’. Indeed, they will not!
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