Andrew Gallimore by Rankin, revealed in a conversation by #The_Kinsky

Interview by Filep Motwary ©

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Rankin teams up with Hunger’s very own visionary Beauty-Editor-At-Large for the latest installment in Rankin’s beauty book series, Andrew Gallimore by Rankin. As the UK’s first ambassador for Dior, Andrew has never been one to shy away from experimentation while, since founding Dazed & Confused in 1992; Rankin
has captured almost every walk of life with his lens.

With a creative partnership spanning several years, the pair’s most recent project documents their most arresting work to date as well as featuring new material shot exclusively for this hard-bound coffee table book. Featuring a range of striking portraiture the book takes inspiration from a wide range of subcultures and genres. Actress Vicky McClure is transformed into Steve Strange ‘Visage’ era, whilst elsewhere Jessie J is given the golden touch.

Charting the history of British beauty icons through make-up, model Ellen Burton is given six very different looks; from Adam Ant to Annie Lennox via Twiggy
& Siouxsie Sioux.

Elsewhere in the book the pair examine the concept of death masks, creating a series of celebratory images adorned with flowers, chains and metal studs.The book also explores a conceptual Men’s make-up story, inspired by how light reacts to different surfaces, proving make-up needn’t always be feminine.

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FM: Thank  you for this great opportunity. Andrew, Do magazines create icons like they used to do 10-20-30… years ago? 

AndrewGallimore: I think magazines will always creat icons. There only has to be one shoot which becomes iconic for the model/ photographer or anyone in the team to shine in their field.

FM: How did this idea of a book collaboration with Andrew come up?

Rankin: In the last 5 years I’ve produced 3 previous make up books with artists at the top of their game. I’m drawn to the great make up artists like a moth to their flame. Andrew is one of the brightest make up flames around.

5777 2 028_f7 5777 3 026_f6FM: Andrew, how do you manage working on different ideas at the same time? 

AG: I try and be as organised as possible. Research, develop, group and file projects. You have to juggle things but I’m pretty good at knowing what I need or want to do for which project.
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FM: Obviously you are working with many make-up artists, pioneers as well as blossoming artists. What are the differences between the two groups?

R: Not much really. It may sound a little trite but they are artists using the face as a canvas.

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FM: What is the routine you follow prior and after a fashion story?

AG: I will try and obtain as much information as possible prior to a shoot…the brief, the references, the team…and plan accordingly. Try and do some research myself, come up with ideas for makeup looks for the shoot. I don’t really have a routine for afterwards…take note of anything I did which I liked…try and improve on it!

FM: How is make-up an essential element in photography?

R: It isn’t. Great photography doesn’t need make up. But it can be so much fun when you use it.
make up doesn’t need photography really – as it’s still a form of art without the the documentation.
as two mediums they just fit together very nicely.

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FM: How important is make-up in fashion?

AG: I think make-up is very important in fashion. Fashion and especially fashion imagery is such a collaborative process, and you work as part of that team…make-up is a cog in the fashion machine. Make-up compliments fashion, it helps to define the character of the girl (or boy) in the fashion.

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FM: Fashion is a circle in which things come and go. How do you reinvent the same looks over and over again over the years?

R: I agree it’s very cyclical. I’m very lucky not to have to be a designer under that amount of pressure every season I have a lot of respect for that level of creativity.
In some ways having done something before helps you push your own boundaries. Also I don’t really see myself as a fashion photographer. More a portrait photographer that has fun with fashion.

Andrew Gallimore by Rankin is the fourth instalment in Rankin’s beauty book series and features a range of compelling portraiture charting British history through make-up. It publishes in December as a hard-back book and is distributed in the UK by Boutique Mags, priced Euro 55.00

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Special thanks to Beverley Luckings

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