Text and photography by Filep Motwary
The world of fashion is expanding, year by year globally. More and more young people feel the urge to create and be involved in this luxurious business. Fashion schools have a big say in this evolution, producing graduates that are sometimes more qualified and optimistic about what is to come than those who already work and shape the industry for more than four decades. Aesthetically speaking, of course.
Among the leading schools, linked to some of the most important names in fashion, is Istituto Marangoni.
Initially founded back in 1935 in Milano as ‘Istituto Artistico dell’Abbigliamento Marangoni’, the school carries and supports the ambitions and success of four students generations, coming from all five continents.
Over 45,000 professionals in fashion and luxury owe their education to Marangoni, including the late Franco Moschino as well as Dolce & Gabbana.From the classroom to the runway, Marangoni students are mentored not only by faculty who are among the most experienced professionals in the world, but also by numerous visiting industry leaders.
On July 9th, the Parisian student’s graduate show was about luxury and expertise. To start with, the venue for this year’s show seemed to be the ideal location, every designer’s dream it would seem.
Located on the Seine, just across the Eiffel Tower, the Mona Bismarck American Center, a Parisian townhouse – or rather a hotel particulier -welcomed guests, international and French press, supporters, fashion personalities, a large number of fashion businesses and living legends including the most private, Haider Ackermann.
It is difficult to say if one can really read the future by looking at the work of its newborns but certainly there are clues; if you look closer and compare one collection to another.
Arriving almost two hours before the show gave me the chance to see what the students prepared as their graduation collection, observe them while they ensemble their looks and speak to the tutors.
Among this frenzy of steamers, hanging garments, anxiety and models having their make up and hair done, the director of Marangoni, Valérie Berdah Levy was making sure everything would go as planned, like a mother preparing her baby’s first and most important birthday party.
This year’s show president was Turkish couturier Serkan Cura, known for his magnificent collections presented during the Haute Couture week as an invited member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne.
On today’s menu, three menswear collections and seven devoted to womenswear, competed for a winner prize that will open the doors to the next level: a place on the global fashion map.
Generally titled “The Warrior Show”, the show started with student Abiola Adeniran, who opened the event, with a wearable and easy collection that boys would love to have, myself included.
Xu Duan suggested a tall silhouette with short pants or minis, clothes that are close to the body, each resembling a game of texture, prints mixed with transparency and pastels. One could see real poetry in her looks.
Yara Mariela Atenco Leon’s ode to Grecian and Roman influences was indeed sexy and playful. Short roman-red dresses decorated with precious stones.
Natasha Hoke presented her interpretation of draping, mixed outlines, and airy color-blocks.
Jessica Isabel Parker’s visualizing new men’s proportions were viable as well as challenging for the urban sportswear.
Tamara Beradze loves color, fluitidy and feminity. Yet, she also likes precision.
Yae Yong Chun girls wore borrowed ideas from the boys’ wardrobe. It looked so fresh!
Jasmin Brar’s clothes reminded me of a designer I most cherish and love, Yiqing Yin. Of course this is not a bad thing. It is great to see someone who is as young and aims to create based on the beauty of romance.
Tian Bu clothes looked more like art pieces rather than clothes that demonstrated a great command of elegant asymmetry.
Finally, the last collection by Giacomo Tortarolo was about modern nomads; fierce trousers with more elaborate contemporary upper wear. There was a sense of nostalgia in his clothes with undecided modernly. Definitive shapes for the man of today.