Interior design and architecture have fueled Laura Juslin and Lilli Maunula’s inspiration since the brand’s beginnings. This season, 40s and 50s interiors images were the starting point for a daring choice of fabrics, with vintage wallpapers and curtain folding initiating the many striped motifs and ruched details integrated in this playful Spring-Summer wardrobe.
Impactful colors and textures such as candy pink or ochre satin, iridescent purple taffeta and burgundy silk organza with thin nylon fringes shimmering like tinsel play on an overtly decorative mood, only reined in through a minimal lense.
Simple sport shapes such as elasticated-waistband pants, skirts or sleeveless tops are disturbed by the jarring nature of some of the fabrics. Unlined coats in bold silver foil micro pleated lame give the impression of a thick tweed fabric but are as lightweight as organza. Glittery effects animate the striped silk and lurex layered silhouettes worn with matching gloves telegraphing an opulent and nonchalant total look. Graphic lurex jumpers and skirts with motifs inspired by Finnish Art Nouveau emit soft pink sparkles.
Mixed in as a couterpoint to the girly fluidity and embellishment are the more solid fabrics, some hitting on a workwear vibe like the belted trench coats and boxy jackets in a striped printed cotton, with robust pieces like a burgundy calfskin leather coat that can be tightened at the front using zippers and almond-green suede biker pants completing this modulable wardrobe.
Accessories play a key role, with jewelry closures adorning almost every piece in the collection. These safety pins in gold or palladium-plated finishes can be positioned into industrial eyelets at the front of tops or in place of buttons on coats and at the side of ample pants with side openings on the legs. The pins will also be sold with a versatile bra-like top wrapping around the bust which can be layered and attached to a matching tank top or jumpsuit underneath. This industrial looking pin doubles as a brooch or earring to be paired with transparent acrylic geometric forms with blue and pink color inclusions echoing the work of Japanese interior designer Shiro Kuramata and Finnish sculptor Vasa Mihich.
Suspended on chain earrings and necklaces, they resemble mini dangling sculptures.
Balancing casual and elaborate, sporty and dressy, the loose and elongated silhouettes evoke an offbeat, formal sense of femininity. For the lookbook pictures, looks are shot in an artsy synthetic installation of cellophane film curtains painted in pastel colors, creating dreamy shadows and strange textures, acting as the ultimate complementary element to the designer’s vision for the collection.
Founded in 2015, JUSLIN-MAUNULA is a creative collaboration between designer Laura Juslin and architect Lilli Maunula, both from Finland. The pair met while studying fashion and textile design at the Aalto Univesity Shool of Art, Design and Architecture in Helsinki and first collaborated on a presentation for the Pre Helsinki collective showroom in Paris.
Two consecutive collections by the design duo, in 2016 and 2017, established the foundations for their aesthetic research and interacting design approach straddling fashion and architecture.
Playing with surrounding space and light, Laura and Lilli like to generate experiences through their clothes and accessories, blurring the lines of fashion collections and set design. Bringing the functional nature of architecture to fashion design and the decorative aspects of fashion to spatial constructions, the brand’s presentations in themselves are powerful visual experiences where spatial installations often physically overlap with the clothes.
Conceptualizing fashion in an architectural context, the garments’ structures are stripped of all superfluous elements such as sew-on bows or decorative buckles. Instead, the specific aesthetic of the collections comes through in the unusual material research and experimentation, offering a fun, synthetic vision of Nordic minimalism.
Paying special attention to textures and colors, the clothes and installations play on light reflections. Pulling from industrial and decorative aesthetics, the designers fold in crafty elements like acrylic sculptures and jewellery, with some actually integrated in the garments, replacing the usual buttons and fasteners.
Freely mixing luxury with the ordinary, materials and fabrics are sourced both from the finest European suppliers and local hardware stores, then further refined in the designers’ Helsinki studio, lending an intriguing quality to the textile embellishments.
Marking the label’s first seasonal collection, the SS18 line builds on this experimental approach to materials, hardware and structure, including nods to interior design, with constructions echoing curtain folds and other draping methods. Following the same design concept as the jewellery, decorative objects will be introduced as one-off creations for the season.
Envisioning its future as a multi-disciplinary act, JUSLIN-MAUNULA sets out to challenge the conventional structure of a fashion brand.
Credits Juslin Maunula Lookbook & Campaign SS18
Photo : Osma Harvilahti
Styling : Samia Giobellina
Video : Andrea Basileo
Model: Lusia Zakharova
Make Up :Masae Ito
Hair: Yoshijo Haruki
Set design : Juslin Maunula