Menswear collective ICOSAE turns the page for the street-wear generation into a new age of the uniform

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Heralded as the fresh faces of the rising young Parisian talent, LVMH top 50 nominees Valentin Glémarec, Anthony Hor and Florentin Glémarec continue to push the boundaries of their made in France menswear collection, ICOSAE.

The team has a combination of studies and experience within the fine art and fashion sectors from Paris based institutions. “Our brand is multifaceted, we have training in different areas. For example, some of us went from studying fine art then leaned towards making collections and some members of our team have worked with big brands including Givenchy so we have an understanding of fast paced nature of the system. We do not discriminate with our skills in art direction to pattern work”.

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Icosae is derivative of the word icosahedron, a geometrical shape of twenty symmetrical sides.

The Spring/Summer 16 collection entitled SWEAT DREAMS tell the story of the phenomenon of sleep in which a person, either falling asleep or awakening, temporarily experiences the inability to move, speak, or react. It is a transitional state between wakefulness and sleep. The season offers warped static silhouettes with atmospheric movement building a theme that reconstructs strict uniforms with subtle movement in fabric compositions.

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SWEAT DREAMS 16 includes a range of prints and patchwork all painted in house. The print of the season is a painting entitled POÏ (OI, OI) serenades the collection by offering a melancholic nod to the British punk movement.

“ There is an element of punk in our work, we all met in skate parks and skated in fully tailored clothing. Elegance is punk, strictness in uniform is punk. We are born into the generation of street wear where we can take from it, but also have a right to refuse it. We see a great element of uniform and pride in Icosae. Accepting a generation of mass consumers can be difficult so we like to soften the world a little by offering long lasting pieces that can be passed down to generations. We still own some garments that belong to our ancestors.” 

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The collection offers an uncompromised range of tailored pants, patchwork shirting, summer coats made in fluid fabrics and a series of linens and easy to breathe fabrics including cotton jersey, wool, linen and selection of nylons.

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“Our family is from Brittany and our grandfather (seen in campaign) was a marine that represented the people of France. We still have an archive of clothing we often look to for referencing when it comes to our practice in tailoring. We don’t look to the past often but we certainly like to respect the craft of tailoring and its devotion to time. This is why we make our clothes in France.”

Show photos- Marc Fenton

Fucking Young photos- Rainer Torado

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