SHADOW WAYFARERS BY BARBARA I GONGINI.

Text by Marlo Saalmink

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Stride. Reach. Confront and maintain. Shielded from the remnants of society, Barbara worked quietly on her masculine genteel warriors. Steadily her collections are becoming more defined, noting a sincere take on workwear, Japanese traditional cuts and her profound exploration of texture. Visible remains also her heritage, that of the Faroe Islands, barren lands, dominated by the erratic whims of the North Atlantic seas. These black clad explorers, become one with the salty rocks, embracing their monastic demeanor, to great effect.

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For her new AW15 men’s collection, the atelier researches the sensory feel of garments. Tailored layers appear as singular attributes, carefully shaping the structured yet languid silhouette. The garments slightly depart from previous collections, in the way, that when dissecting each silhouette, individual pieces appear notably structured, fitted and surprisingly masculine. Furthermore, Barbara has worked a lot on the utility of the garments, adding inventive solutions for discerning waders. What appears theatric at first, is indeed a wonderfully reworked take on classic tailoring with a dash of contemporary sartorial boldness.

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Sturdy washed denim is combined with wool overlay coats, comfy sweats appear layered with hand woven knits and lightweight elongated cotton shirts are juxtaposed by tailored linen vests. Seams and stitches become part of an exoskeleton, enhancing our anatomy by delineating and sculpting our corporal forms. The sharp shirts feature multi-functional closures, allowing wearers to shape their respective silhouette with intent. Add onto this a curated array of leather accessories, that exist as cordial harnesses, fitted vests and utility cuffs.

No sign of a way out. As the silence fades, Barbara’s sentient wanderers are observed, as they vanish along the coastline.

For more on Barbara: www.barbaraigongini.dk

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