Interview by Filep Motwary
Entirely self-taught and passionate about clothing, Ainur Turisbek is one of Kazakhstan’s most prolific and confident designers. Based in Almaty -the country’s largest city- she gained experience working as a fit model for the likes of Gianfranco Ferrè fur. It was with the Italian maestro that she developed her understanding of volumes, textures and proportions, which form the core of her eponymous line.
Dramatic, sensual and rigorous, her clothes exude femininity and strength. Envisaging fashion as an art form, she favors sculptural shapes and clear lines, emphasizing her desire for purity. She first presented her collection during the autumn session of Kazakhstan Fashion Week in 2012, quickly attracting the attention of press and buyers. At the close of Fashion Week, she received a nomination for the “Best Debut of the Year” award. Despite coming across as minimalistic, her clothes are intricate and sophisticated, underlining the value of cut.
FilepMotwary: How did everything start for you? Why you have chosen fashion as your profession in the first place.
Ainur Turisbek: I was fascinated by fashion even as a young child. I expressed myself by customizing my grandfather’s army jackets and father’s suits. However, when it came time for college, I initially put my interest to fashion aside and went to study law, according to our family tradition. After achieving Juris Doctor degree, I realized that in order to grow as a person, I needed to start something new. Besides during the working time as a model for Gianfranco Ferre Furs while immersing myself into textiles, proportions and cut, I had defined the direction. I signed up for the appointment at Kazakhstan Fashion Week office. Armed myself with a pile of sketches and the soundtrack of future catwalk – written by my brother Timur Turisbekov (the frontman of Project Zenit) and went there with a strong conviction to gain a new characteristic for my CV. Trying not to be satisfied with stories, how things have gone with others and proceed to unfold my own myth.
FM: How did you form the “ AINUR TURISBEK” hero, the man you dress?
AT: The heroes of our story are people, driven by the desire to grow. Confident, well mannered, not looking for someone else’s approval, but being whole and complete by himself or herself. Never do they buy clothes for the label but choose the clothing to underline their personality.
FM: Who is this man?
AT: If not having in mind the gender and age, but appealing to the confidence and inner strength everyone who possess both could relate themselves with my clothing conception. This can be an urban cool girl or a glamorous uptown dandy, this can be a luxe street swagger or gangsta player, as long as they have the power inside they all fit.
FM: Do you feel fashion is changing? If yes to which direction?
AT: Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months – that is what Oscar Wilde once said. Finally, people are more into comfort. They want to feel relaxed, remaining cool and stylish.
FM: What is the most important thing a young designer must know?
AT: The obvious thing that never can be left unsaid is that you have to have an identity and say something different of what others either said or seen before. Primarily you plan the whole thing step by step. From clothing sample to production. From showroom to buyers. From Press Office to Campaigns. I guess the obsession of putting everything into a systematic order comes from my working as a lawyer.
FM:Have worked for other designers before you launched your own collection?
AT:Although I was suggested to work for a well-established brand, I had never accepted it. Since the creating of clothes is my self-expression, I admitted myself to create under my own name. Nevertheless, I would find it interesting to collaborate with other designers and work on mutual project.
FM:What shall we expect from you in the near future?
AT: After presenting the woman collection of AW15/16 during Paris Fashion Week Woman, we will carry on with the show at Kazakhstan Fashion Week in April, 2015. Everyone is welcome! By this time I will have my head full of new ideas and will pitch my tent at the office in Izmir to work on SS16.
FM:Where is your FW15/16 collection available?
AT: The collection is available in Kazakhstan and Russia. The conception stores “Dostyk, 36”, “SADU”, “Lui-Lei” and our showroom are in Almaty. “SADU” in Astana. Also “Flashstore” in Crocus City Mall in Moscow. For the buyers contact our sale-agent Johann Schroeder